In the Footsteps of Tibetan Pilgrims at Labrang
It smells like Tibet. Of yak butter melting in candle flames and dark-pine branches smoking through layers of heated stones. The scent jolts me back to my time in Lhasa, a combination of ingredients that is uniquely Tibetan. Prayer beads, small and large, sombre and bright, adorn the wrists and necks of passersby. Colourful sashes, […]
The Handbook to Civilised Sightseeing in Gansu 甘肅
“There is one secret to successful sightseeing in Gansu and most of China. When visiting a relatively famous sight, expect to see a thousand tourists gathered around, that way when there are only two hundred of them before you, you’ll be pleasantly surprised.” – The Handbook to Civilised Sightseeing in Gansu (Unknown Author) Last year, the […]
Xinjiang 新疆 – Our Gateway into China
“Let China sleep, for when she wakes, she will shake the world.” – Napoleon Steaming stacks of bamboo baskets are smoking against the cold morning air. Chestnuts are roasting among scorching black beans, stirred steadily in a blackened wok. White and pink fuzzy flat peaches perch neatly in rows opposite carts mounted high with the […]
Road Trip Gone Wild at the “Roof of The World”
My head hits the roof of the Toyota Land Cruiser waking me up from my early morning “pass out”. The smooth roads leaving the Tajik capital of Dushanbe give us false hope for the journey to the start of the Pamirs. In reality, the roads are perfection until you reach President Rahmon’s hometown of Danghara, […]
Kicking it Up at the Murghab Horse Festival
Metallic horse hooves pound the tundra as dust particles vibrate into the crisp air. Crowds have gathered patiently in a vast plateau surrounded by dramatic lunar peaks. At the edge, electric towers set up a barrier, barely holding up cascading wires; the rods occasionally setting off loud twangs with sparks as a surcharge goes through […]
Sunday Pancakes with Caramel Nectarine Compote
Somedays, you just want pancakes. Especially after being on the road for several months, exciting your palate with new flavours, unknown spices and foreign textures; there are mornings where you simply crave good ole’ comfort food. Missing our sunday brunches at home, these pancakes are capable of transporting us right there or good enough to […]
Conquering the Fann Mountains
“Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out going to the mountains is going home; that wilderness is a necessity…” – John Muir Most people who actually know where to pinpoint Tajikistan on a map have heard of the mountainous wonders of the Pamir Highway, a recurring destination listed on many adventurers’ […]
Pantry Panzanella
What do you do when you crave a summer salad, but are short on fresh ingredients? When you open your fridge and all you find are some pickled capers? Summer is nearing its end, but we don’t really want to think about that, so here is a simple recipe to recreate a taste of summer […]
Uzbekistan…Through The Funnel
Uzbekistan is the third in our series – “…Through the Funnel”. You can read our previous one on Iran here. It is a way for us to share 12 aspects that stood out to us in our experience of the country and its people. Did we miss something that stood out to you in Uzbekistan? * Several aspects we observed in […]
Enchanting Khiva
The barb-wired gate clanged shut as it bounced into its lock and we breathed a sigh of relief. Turning back to look at Turkmenistan one last time we squealed quietly not wanting to draw more attention from the guards, “Yeaaaay we made it out of Turkmenistan in one piece!”. Thank you, thank you and off […]
